off the menu
A Japanese restaurant to replace O Ya in the Park South Hotel, a Latin-inspired cafe in the Bronx, and more restaurant news.
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Carmen Ramírez Degollado’s husband helped open El Bajío in Mexico City, in 1972, and, when he died a few years later, Ms. Ramírez Degollado, known as Titita, took over the restaurant. Since 2006, El Bajío has opened 18 more family-owned restaurants, known for the food of Veracruz, Oaxaca, Puebla and the Yucatán. Now she’s 83, and two of her grandsons, Santiago Ramírez Degollado and Sebastián Ramírez Degollado, who live in New York, are opening this homage to her. It’s the first restaurant outside Mexico for the family behind the El Bajío company, in a simple, subdued space, done with rustic elegance. Clay pots line one wall. The menu lists assorted tacos and will feature duck tostadas, plantain empanadas, enchiladas de mole Xico, fish Veracruz-style and shrimp in a charred chipotle sauce. Desserts include a warm corn cake with ice cream. The executive chef for the group, Josep Rivera, will spend a few weeks to help grease the wheels before returning to Mexico, and the wine list will feature several Mexican wines. (Opens Thursday)
114 Franklin Street (West Broadway), 917-540-5500, casacarmennyc.com.
O Ya, Covina and the Roof Bar, the Park South Hotel restaurants run by Tim and Nancy Cushman from Boston, closed in 2020. Sweetbriar, which opened last fall, replaced Covina. Now the Sweetbriar team, with the TH/RST Group and its executive chef Bryce Shuman, is opening this spot in the former O Ya space named for a Tokyo neighborhood tightly packed with bars and restaurants. GG Tokyo features an à la carte menu that is Japanese in its approach, but informed by Mr. Shuman’s French training. Dishes include spicy salmon hand rolls with potato and Serrano chiles, Japanese-style fried chicken with tartar sauce, Wagyu sushi with chile crisp and chives. Drinks figure importantly, and Japanese ingredients flavor some of the bar manager Ivan Papic’s cocktails. (Wednesday)
120 East 28th Street, 212-204-0200, ggtokyo.nyc.
Liz Neumark’s Great Performances, a catering and restaurant management company, has opened this plant-based, Latin-inspired cafe on the ground floor of its Bronx headquarters. Tacos, burritos and quesadillas, filled mostly with ingredients grown on Ms. Neumark’s Katchkie Farm in the Hudson Valley, are served. Open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Friday, it also sells houseplants. (Wednesday)
2417 Third Avenue (East 134th Street), Mott Haven, Bronx, 212-337-6098.
This outdoor restaurant surrounded by greenery in Riverside Park has reopened for the season, with dishes like a quinoa bowl, a fried chicken sandwich with Asian slaw and Sriracha aioli, and plenty of ice cream. It’s run by Glenda Sansone, who owns Ellington on Broadway nearby. (Monday)
Riverside Park, West Side Highway at 105th Street, 917-280-4533, ellingtoninthepark.com.
This spacious waterfront restaurant on the North Shore of Long Island will open with a Mediterranean menu by the executive chef, Franco Vendome, who is a partner in Nino’s Restaurant Group with his brother, Michael, and the chef de cuisine, Ken Corrow. It will feature seafood, Southern Italian items and pizza from a wood-fired oven. The group also owns Nino’s 46 in Manhattan, and Nino’s AQ in Astoria, Queens. (Friday)
43 Orchard Beach Boulevard (Linwood Road South), Port Washington, N.Y., 516-502-0441, ninosbeach.com.
Liz Johnson, a New York chef who was working in California, will open this restaurant in what was Chumley’s, the venerable literary speakeasy in the West Village, after it closed during the pandemic. She and her husband, the chef Will Aghajanian, are partners. They are working with Thomas Carter, Ignacio Mattos’s former partner in Flora Bar, Estela and Café Altro Paradiso, who left under a cloud in light of accusations that he harassed employees. Ms. Johnson said she turned to him because she needed someone with expertise in running restaurants. (There are other partners as well.) They plan to respect the original architectural features, and her food will be “upscale tavern, nourishing but not ego-driven,” she said. It is to open before the end of the year.
86 Bedford Street (Barrow Street).
A new hotel named for its address, Nine Orchard, is to open in late spring in the former Jarmulowsky Bank building on the Lower East Side. It will include three restaurants: a grand yet intimate grill, a corner tavern-style bar and a luxe cocktail lounge in the lobby. They will be run by Ignacio Mattos’s company, Mattos Hospitality. DLJ Real Estate Capital Partners has restored the 1912 building with its elaborate Beaux-Arts architectural details, some of which will serve as a backdrop for the restaurants.
9 Orchard Street (Canal Street), nineorchard.com.
Casa Carmen Opens, and More New York Restaurant News – The New York Times